What Maison Lemarie does

Maison Lemarie is a French artisan house founded in 1880 by Palmyre Coyette, headquartered at the 19M creative hub in Paris, that produces bespoke decorative and embellishment pieces for the global luxury fashion industry. The house holds five complementary savoir-faire under one roof: plumasserie (feather work, the founding craft), fleuristerie (fabric flowers, including the iconic CHANEL camellia produced exclusively since the 1960s), Lognon pleating (acquired 2013, supported by 3,000+ heritage cardboard moulds), couture sewing, and textile ennobling (via the 2021/2023 acquisition of Dynale atelier). These techniques rely entirely on master artisan handwork, with certain crafts (notably Lognon pleating) transmitted exclusively through in-atelier apprenticeship with no external training available.

The business operates as a B2B Métiers d'Art supplier, generating revenue through direct bespoke commissions from the design studios of luxury fashion houses, with no consumer-facing offering or public pricing. Customers include CHANEL (the primary anchor partner and sole producer of the camellia), Dior, Valentino, Givenchy, Hermès, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, DS Automobiles, and interior designers such as Aline Asmar d'Amman. Production cycles are tied to the haute couture, Métiers d'Art, and ready-to-wear fashion show calendars, with notable outputs ranging from one-off haute couture pieces (e.g., 25,000+ feather creations for a single CHANEL wedding dress) to small series for leather goods, accessories, perfume packaging, and interior decoration.

The company is a private French SAS with €250,000 in share capital, registered as LEMARIE (RCS Paris 815341698), and has been part of CHANEL's Métiers d'Art network since 1996 while operating as a distinct entity. It holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) state label, complies with CITES regulations for feather sourcing, and resides at the 19M creative hub in Paris/Aubervilliers since 2019. Bruno Pavlovsky serves as Président. The house has 101-250 employees and no public revenue disclosure.

Name

Maison Lemarie

Legal name

LEMARIE

Website

https://lemarie-paris.com

Company type

Private

Founded year

1880

Operating status

Operating

Headcount range

101–250 employees

Short description

Maison Lemarie is a French artisan house founded in 1880 that produces bespoke feather, fabric flower, pleating, couture, and textile ennobling creations for luxury fashion houses including CHANEL, Dior, and Valentino, operating within CHANEL's Métiers d'Art network from the 19M creative hub in Paris.

Ownership category

akta.pro rank

Product category

Artisan Luxury Crafts (Métiers d'Art)

NAICS

Apparel Manufacturing (315), Apparel Accessories and Other Apparel Manufacturing (3159)

SIC

Apparel & Other Finishd Prods Of Fabrics & Similar Matl (2300)

akta.pro primary industry

Luxury & Couture / Small-Batch Cut & Sew (IMAOAEAL)

akta.pro secondary industries

Luxury Haute Couture (CRAAAFAB), Luxury & Designer Apparel Houses (CRAAAAAC)

Keywords

• Artisan feather work
• Fabric flower fabrication
• Haute couture embellishment
• Luxury textile pleating
• Metiers d'art

Headquarters

HQ city

Paris

HQ country

France

HQ region

Europe

Offices1 record

Markets served

GTM type

B2B

Offering type

Services

Cost components

Personnel, Supply Chain, Operations, Marketing or Sales

Revenue model

1. Bespoke artisanal commissions for luxury fashion houses: Lemarié generates revenue through direct B2B commissions with luxury fashion houses, producing bespoke feather, flower, pleating, sewing, and textile ennobling creations for haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, interior decoration, and perfume/beauty packaging. Projects range from one-off haute couture pieces to small series and production runs for luxury brands.
2. Interior decoration and design commissions: Lemarié's savoir-faire is extended to interior decorators, architects, and designers for exceptional interior decoration pieces, window displays, and bespoke design projects, generating revenue through custom commissions.

Go-to-market motion2 records

Distribution channels2 records

Marketing channels5 records

Core offering

Maison Lemarie produces bespoke artisanal pieces across five complementary savoir-faire — feather work (plumasserie), fabric flowers (fleuristerie, including the iconic CHANEL camellia), Lognon pleating, couture sewing, and textile ennobling. The house serves as a direct B2B supplier to luxury fashion houses and design professionals, executing one-off haute couture creations through small series and production runs for haute couture, ready-to-wear, leather goods, accessories, interior decoration, and beauty packaging.

Product overview

Maison Lemarie is a French artisan house founded in 1880 offering an integrated portfolio of five core savoir-faire (craft expertise areas): Feathers (historic craft since 1880), Flowers (since 1950s), Couture sewing, Lognon Pleats (from Atelier Lognon, integrated in 2013), and Textile Ennobling (from Dynale atelier, integrated in 2023). These crafts are deployed across four service sectors: Fashion (Haute Couture and luxury ready-to-wear), Leather Goods & Accessories, Interior Decoration & Window Displays, and Perfume/Beauty & Spirits. The house serves prestigious clients including CHANEL, Dior, Valentino, Givenchy, Nina Ricci, and others, creating decorative elements such as feather marquetry, fabric flowers (including the iconic CHANEL camellia), pleated fabrics, and couture embellishments. Lemarie is a resident of the 19M creative hub (since 2019) and has been part of CHANEL's Metiers d'Art since 1996.

Differentiator

Problem solved

Functional benefit

Products and services

• La Plume (Feathers) Historic plumasserie (feather work) offering that sublimates feathers into exceptional ornamental pieces — including feather marquetry with tweezers (brucelle), all-over feather applications, ostrich feather boas, and structured feather compositions — for haute couture, leather goods, jewellery, beauty packaging, and interior decoration. CITES-compliant sourcing with full traceability.
• La Fleur (Flowers) Fabric flower making service including the iconic CHANEL camellia (sole manufacturer since the 1960s). Flowers are created from organza, tulle, leather, velvet, satin, chiffon, tweed, organdie, feathers, fur, and rhodoid using die-cutting, embossing, embroidery, engraving, and hand assembly techniques for haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories.
• Le Plissé Lognon (Lognon Pleats) Hand pleating service using steam-oven fixation and a heritage archive of over 3,000 cardboard moulds. Produces accordion, flat, boat, sunray, crushed, Watteau, diamond, nun, cocotte, autumn, pic pic, ribbon, and origami pleats, as well as custom pleating on georgette, leather, silk, and other fine fabrics for couture and accessories.
• La Couture Multidisciplinary couture sewing atelier that orchestrates feathers, flowers, pleating, and ennobling to shape fabrics. Produces ruffles, ribbons, smocks, ruching, quilting, and origami-style assembly for sophisticated relief effects on haute couture garments and accessories.
• L'Ennoblissement Textile (Textile Ennobling) Hand-applied textile ennobling from the Dynale atelier that enriches fabrics with colour and texture through painting, burnishing, printing, coating, gilding, oxidation, shaving, cutting, and devore techniques. Used in fashion collections, decorative pieces, and artistic collaborations.

Quantifiable outcome

• One-off haute couture pieces can involve over 25,000 individually prepared feathers (e.g., Dua Lipa's CHANEL wedding dress) and more than 150 meters of georgette for a single pleated collection
• +1 more outcomes

Named customers10 records

Segments4 records

Ideal customer profiles4 records

Technology focussed No

API detail

Has API

No

API docs

API detail

Core technology

AI maturity

App detail

Feature5 records

Partnerships

Nine partnerships are on record, tiered minor and core.

• Lesage (Embroidery)minorStrategic or Co-development Partner · 1 January 2025Lesage embroidery collaborated with Lemarié on the CHANEL Métiers d'Art 2025/26 collection unveiled in New York, where Lesage embroidery on the upper part of a dress was paired with Lemarié's ostrich feather pinches and boas on the lower part.
• Dynale Atelier (Textile Ennobling)coreStrategic or Co-development Partner · 1 January 2021Dynale atelier, founded in 1974 by Evelyne Leu, joined Lemarié in 2021 (referenced as 2023 in some sources). Dynale specializes in hand textile ennobling: painting, patination, screen printing, gilding, oxidation, shaving, cutting, and devore. The atelier enriches Lemarié's offering with color and textural fabric effects for fashion houses, decorators, artists, and designers.
• Atelier Lognon (Lognon Pleating)coreStrategic or Co-development Partner · 1 January 2013Atelier Lognon, a pleating house since 1853, was integrated into Lemarié in 2013. Lognon brought its exceptional heritage of over 3,000 pleating moulds (métiers) and the unique Lognon pleating technique requiring two artisan pleaters working in synchronized four-handed ballet. The pleating technique uses steam-oven fixing and is transmitted entirely within the atelier without formal training.
• CHANELcoreStrategic or Co-development PartnerCHANEL is Lemarié's primary strategic partner and parent company within the CHANEL Métiers d'Art group. Lemarié joined the CHANEL Métiers d'Art fold in 1996. It is the exclusive manufacturer of the iconic CHANEL camellia since the 1960s and produces feather, flower, pleating, and couture pieces for every CHANEL Haute Couture, Métiers d'Art, and Ready-to-Wear collection.
• Guillet Atelier (Flower)minorStrategic or Co-development PartnerThe Guillet flower atelier workshop was incorporated into Lemarié in the 1950s-60s alongside the Légeron atelier, expanding Lemarié's floral savoir-faire beyond feathers.
• Légeron Atelier (Flower)minorStrategic or Co-development PartnerThe Légeron flower atelier workshop was incorporated into Lemarié in the 1950s-60s alongside Guillet, building the house's fabric flower making expertise.
• Design Tochi (Design Collective)minorStrategic or Co-development PartnerLemarié collaborated with the Design Tochi collective for the 'Beyond Our Horizons' exhibition at Galerie du 19M, creating a pleating inspired by traditional Japanese 'ajiro bari' fishing and mat-making techniques. The exhibition traveled from Tokyo to Paris.
• Koh Kado (Artist)minorStrategic or Co-development PartnerLemarié collaborated with artist Koh Kado for the 'Beyond Our Horizons' exhibition. Over 100 hand-made paper flowers in traditional Japanese torinoko and karakami papers were created using the Atelier Fleur's savoir-faire.
• Yomihiro Kono, Sayaka Maruyama (Collaborating Artists)minorStrategic or Co-development PartnerLemarié collaborated with Yomihiro Kono, Tomikono Wig, and Sayaka Maruyama for a headpiece featuring butterfly wings combining human hair, braids, and ostrich, goose, and duck feathers shaped by Lemarié's feather artisans.

Scale indicators5 records

Recent moves9 records

Expansion highlights6 records

Emerging players

• Maison Février: Independent French plumassier (feather artisan) and one of very few remaining houses worldwide still practicing feather craftsmanship alongside Lemarié. Smaller scale and narrower offering, but directly comparable métier d'art category and potential competitive supplier to luxury fashion houses.

Direct peers

• Maison Causse: Glovemaker since 1892, also part of CHANEL's Métiers d'Art network. Bespoke luxury accessory supplier serving couture houses, sharing the artisan expertise and 19M residence profile with Lemarié.
• Goossens: CHANEL Métiers d'Art jeweler and founder of fine metalwork, goldsmithing and costume jewelry since 1950s Paris. Sister atelier serving the same luxury clientele with a comparable bespoke commission model and integration into the 19M creative hub.
• Desrues: CHANEL Métiers d'Art buttons, costume jewelry, and passementerie house founded in 1928. Same bespoke B2B artisan model serving couture houses, co-located at 19M, and operating under the same luxury couture value proposition as Lemarié.
• Lesage: Sister Métiers d'Art house within the CHANEL network and the canonical embroidery counterpart to Lemarié. Both serve the same luxury fashion houses on bespoke embellishment commissions and frequently co-deliver single pieces (e.g., CHANEL Métiers d'Art 2025/26). Identical B2B artisan model and customer roster.
• Massaro: Sister Métiers d'Art shoemaker within CHANEL, founded in 1881 in Paris. Comparable bespoke model serving luxury fashion houses, housed at the 19M creative hub alongside Lemarié, with similar pricing structure and exclusive customer portfolio.
• Montex: Paris embroidery house acquired into CHANEL's Métiers d'Art network. Closely comparable to Lesage and Lemarié as a Métiers d'Art embroiderer with luxury fashion house clientele, same B2B bespoke commission model.
• Barrie: Scottish heritage cashmere knitwear specialist integrated into CHANEL's Métiers d'Art network, producing for haute couture collections. Comparable bespoke manufacturer servicing luxury fashion houses from the 19M.

Market position

Strengths5 records

Weaknesses5 records

Competitive moat5 records

Key risks6 records

Key highlights7 records

Customer concentration

• Facebookfacebook.com/maisonlemarie
• LinkedInfr.linkedin.com/company/maison-lemari%C3%A9
• Instagraminstagram.com/maison_lemarie

Compliance2 records

Revenue estimate

Valuation estimate

Number of profiles

Profiles1 record

Subsidiaries2 records

Funding overview

Funding rounds

Investors

Funding detail is available on the Subscription and Enterprise plan.Contact sales →

M&A

Investments

M&A and investment is available on the Subscription and Enterprise plan.Contact sales →

Frequently asked questions about Maison Lemarie