Subsurface

What Subsurface does

Subsurface is an independent specialty womenswear brand founded in 2020 by Kari Fry and headquartered in Los Angeles, operating as a direct-to-consumer e-commerce business at subsurface.tv. The company designs and develops its assortment locally in Los Angeles alongside an in-house pattern maker, with production split across Los Angeles, New York, and Milan, and distributes globally via UPS with a carbon-neutral shipping arrangement. Its product portfolio of approximately 38 SKUs is organized into named collections — The Liquid Collection (sheer metallic pieces), Core Silk Charmeuse, Death of Cleopatra (original 3D textile), Mother of Pearl (Keshi freshwater pearl jewelry plus a bespoke bra), The Butterfly Effect, Soie de la Cour (deadstock silks), and Pheromones (swimwear) — with pricing ranging from roughly $50 for swim basics up to $10,000 for bespoke pieces ordered through a dedicated custom-order channel.

The brand's commercial model is a one-time-purchase DTC model with no subscription tier: revenue is generated through direct online sales of ready-to-wear, made-to-order, and bespoke pieces, supplemented by never-expiring digital gift cards in $100-$1,000 denominations. It serves a primary customer segment of women seeking distinctive, specialty fashion pieces that cannot be sourced elsewhere, plus a secondary gift-buyer segment. Subsurface does not appear to use wholesale or third-party retail distribution, maintaining exclusivity through its own storefront, and it has built brand awareness primarily through earned media (features in Vogue, The New York Times, Forbes, W Magazine, New York Magazine, and Nylon) and organic social channels (Instagram and TikTok). The company is bootstrapped and founder-owned, with no disclosed external funding, institutional investors, or parent entity.

Name

Subsurface

Legal name

Subsurface

Website

https://subsurface.tv

Company type

Private

Founded year

2020

Operating status

Operating

Headcount range

1–10 employees

Short description

Subsurface is an independent, bootstrapped Los Angeles-based specialty womenswear brand founded in 2020 by Kari Fry, selling ~38 handcrafted DTC pieces (silk garments, original textiles, Keshi pearl jewelry, swim) worldwide via subsurface.tv at price points from $50 to $10,000 bespoke.

Ownership category

akta.pro rank

Product category

Specialty Womenswear

NAICS

Clothing and Clothing Accessories Retailers (45811), Jewelry Retailers (458310)

SIC

Retail-Women's Clothing Stores (5621), Costume Jewelry & Novelties (3960)

akta.pro industry

PRIMARYCRAAAFAG

Luxury Womenswear

Consumer Products & Retail/Apparel, Footwear & Accessories/Luxury & Designer Fashion

SECONDARYCRAKAEAF

Luxury Scarves, Gloves & Cold-Weather Accessories

Consumer Products & Retail/Jewelry, Watches & Luxury Accessories/Luxury Accessories (Leather Goods, Sunglasses, Small Leather Goods)

Keywords

• Specialty womenswear
• Designer silk dresses
• Handcrafted pearl jewelry
• Made-to-order fashion
• Independent apparel brand

Headquarters

HQ city

Los Angeles

HQ country

United States

HQ region

North America

Offices4 records

Markets served

GTM type

B2C

Offering type

Hardware or Manufacturing

Cost components

Supply Chain, Personnel, Operations, Marketing or Sales, Technology or R&D

Revenue model

1. Direct product sales: One-time purchase of specialty womenswear pieces including dresses, skirts, tops, jewelry, and swimwear. Products range from ready-to-ship items to made-to-order pieces.
2. Custom/bespoke orders: Bespoke pieces like Mother of Pearl Bra priced at $10,000, with custom ordering process via [email protected]
3. Digital gift cards: Digital gift cards sold in denominations of $100, $200, $300, $500, and $1,000 that never expire

Pricing tiers

Go-to-market motion1 record

Distribution channels2 records

Marketing channels5 records

Core offering

Subsurface designs, develops, and sells independent specialty womenswear — including silk dresses, tops, skirts, knit pants, swimwear, and handcrafted pearl jewelry — through its own DTC e-commerce site at subsurface.tv. The brand offers named collections (The Liquid Collection, Silk Essentials, Mother of Pearl, Death of Cleopatra, The Butterfly Effect, Draped Chiffon, swimwear) featuring custom-made fabrics and original textile designs, plus bespoke commissions (e.g., Mother of Pearl Bra) priced up to $10,000 and digital gift cards. Production occurs in Los Angeles, New York, and Milan, with worldwide shipping via UPS.

Product overview

Subsurface is an independent Los Angeles-based specialty womenswear brand founded in 2020 by Kari Fry. The company offers a diverse portfolio of products organized into several distinct collections: The Liquid Collection features sheer, metallic pieces with liquid-like pearlescent sheen (including The Liquid Slip, The Liquid Tank, Long Sleeve Liquid Slip, The Liquid Thong, and Liquid Second Skin); Silk Essentials encompasses silk garments including the Silk Tunic Dress, Patchwork Silk Skirt, Deep Cowl Silk Top, Leopard Silk Tunic, Silk Tie Top, Ribbon Wrap Skirt, Silk Ribbon Top, and The Silk Mini; The Mother of Pearl Collection offers handcrafted pearl jewelry including chokers, belly chains, anklets, a bespoke bra, and key rings; The Death of Cleopatra Collection features pieces with original 3D textiles inspired by the legend of Cleopatra; The Butterfly Effect Dress represents an exclusive knitwear piece; and swimwear, occasion wear (Draped Chiffon Gown and Skirt), everyday basics (Hourglass Little Black Dress, Hostess Pant), and digital gift cards complete the offerings. All pieces are designed and developed locally in Los Angeles with production in Los Angeles, New York, and Milan.

Differentiator

Problem solved

Functional benefit

Brands

• Death of Cleopatra: Collection inspired by the legend of Cleopatra's death, featuring organic striations imitating a body wrapped by a serpent with Egyptian Mako Cotton Blend textiles
• Mother of Pearl
• The Butterfly Effect
• The Liquid Collection
• Soie de la Cour
• Pheromones
• Core Silk Charmeuse

Products and services

• The Liquid Slip A sheer, metallic floor-length slip dress with a liquid-like pearlescent sheen, designed with a slight scoop neckline and thin self-fabric straps; part of The Liquid Collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, ready-to-wear specialty womenswear.
• Silk Tunic Dress A romantic, plunge-neck dress made with double-layered metallic silks and hand-sewn trims, featuring poet sleeves and a side zipper. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk eveningwear.
• Patchwork Silk Skirt A unique multi-silk midi skirt made with three different types of silk sewn together with French seams, featuring an elastic waistband. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk skirts.
• Mother of Pearl Drip Choker A handcrafted necklace made with freshwater Keshi pearls featuring three layers of chunky pearl strands adorned with pearl droplets, coins, and crosses. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Deep Cowl Silk Top A deep plunge-necks cowl tank top made with custom printed Italian silk, featuring extra-long self-fabric ties and a deep cowl at the back. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk tops.
• Leopard Silk Tunic A plunge-neck dress made with double-layered metallic silks featuring sparkling neckline trims, poet sleeves, and a side zipper, using custom animal print fabrics crafted from Italian silk including leopard print designs. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk eveningwear.
• Draped Chiffon Gown A floor-length gown made with over 5 yards of hand-draped silk chiffon featuring an open back and silk charmeuse ties at neck and waist. Targeted at women seeking distinctive occasion wear.
• Hourglass Little Black Dress A timeless black mini dress made with Italian double crepe wool featuring barely-there straps that create a natural hourglass shape. Targeted at women seeking elevated everyday LBDs.
• Draped Chiffon Skirt A floor-length skirt using two layers of deadstock silk chiffon with hand-sewn draping, landing mid-rise. Targeted at women seeking distinctive occasion skirts.
• The Liquid Tank A sheer, metallic tank top with a liquid-like pearlescent sheen, featuring a slight scoop neckline and thin self-fabric straps; part of The Liquid Collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic tops.
• Long Sleeve Liquid Slip A sheer, metallic long-sleeve floor-length dress with a high neckline, baby seam finishes, and a liquid-like sheen; part of The Liquid Collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic eveningwear.
• The Liquid Thong A high-waist, low-cut sheer thong with a liquid-like metallic sheen; part of The Liquid Collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic intimates.
• Liquid Second Skin A sheer, metallic jumpsuit with a keyhole back and exposed heel featuring a liquid-like pearlescent sheen; part of The Liquid Collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic eveningwear.
• The Butterfly Effect Dress A sheer, metallic floor-length dress with extra-long trumpet sleeves and an off-the-shoulder neckline, featuring SUBSURFACE's original diamond pointelle stitch; part of The Butterfly Effect collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic eveningwear.
• Death of Cleopatra Long Sleeve Top An off-the-shoulder top with extra-long sleeves featuring a SUBSURFACE original 3D textile with organic striations imitating a body wrapped by a serpent; part of the Death of Cleopatra collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, narrative-driven pieces.
• Death of Cleopatra Maxi Skirt A mid-rise maxi skirt featuring the Death of Cleopatra original textile with organic striations, designed to distress over time; part of the Death of Cleopatra collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, narrative-driven skirts.
• Death of Cleopatra Tube Top A tube top with a slight sweetheart shape featuring the Death of Cleopatra original 3D textile with organic striations; part of the Death of Cleopatra collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, narrative-driven tops.
• Death of Cleopatra Pant High-waisted pants with an elastic waistband featuring the Death of Cleopatra original textile with organic striations; part of the Death of Cleopatra collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, narrative-driven bottoms.
• Silk Tie Top A heavyweight silk charmeuse tie top cut on bias and double-layered, paired with extra-long 1mm satin cording for versatile styling. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk tops.
• Ribbon Wrap Skirt A double-layered heavyweight silk charmeuse wrap skirt with self-fabric ribbon ties, designed to be tied at waist or hips. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk skirts.
• Silk Bralette A double-layered silk charmeuse bralette with an elevated sweetheart shape and individually hand-sewn gunmetal hook and eyes. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk intimates.
• Silk Ribbon Top A heavyweight silk top cut on bias and double-layered, paired with extra-long self-fabric ribbon ties for versatile styling. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk tops.
• Healing Properties A chrome nipple-cover top with organically shaped stone-like brooches and thin metallic stretch cording, designed as a luxury styling piece. Targeted at women seeking distinctive, statement-making pieces.
• The Silk Mini A mini skirt double-layered with silk charmeuse featuring extra-long silk ribbon ties. Targeted at women seeking distinctive silk skirts.
• The Hostess Pant A double-layered ribbed knit pant inspired by late 1990s and early 2000s style, made with over 94% cotton. Targeted at women seeking distinctive knit pants.
• Mother of Pearl Bra (Bespoke) A bespoke bra made from Keshi pearls featuring delicate single-string straps with a single-string neck hoister and centerfront bodice jewel; commissioned via [email protected] at $10,000. Targeted at ultra-high-end individual buyers seeking one-of-a-kind pearl pieces.
• Mother of Pearl Belly Chain A handcrafted belly chain made with freshwater Keshi pearls; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Triangle Swim Top A tiny, metallic hand-sewn and double-layered swim top with extra-long metallic string cording and endless ways to tie; part of the Pheromones swim collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic swimwear.
• Swim Braid Bottom Cheeky, mid-rise swim bottoms with a braided stretch waistband; part of the Pheromones swim collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic swimwear.
• Swim String Bottom Cheeky, mid-rise swim bottoms with a tie string at the right hip; part of the Pheromones swim collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic swimwear.
• Swim Tube Bottom Cheeky, mid-rise swim bottoms with a stretch tube waistband; part of the Pheromones swim collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive metallic swimwear.
• Mother of Pearl Margaret of Valois Choker A hand-crafted necklace inspired by Margaret of Valois, made with Keshi pearls featuring layers of delicate pearl strands adorned with a center pearl cross and droplets ending with pearl coins and crosses; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Mother of Pearl Key Ring A handcrafted key ring made with Keshi pearls; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl accessories.
• Mother of Pearl Delicate Anklet An adjustable, double-layered anklet with exposed wire made with freshwater Keshi pearls; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Mother of Pearl Dual Cross An adjustable, double-layered anklet with exposed wire and a hanging cross pearl, also doubling as a necklace; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Mother of Pearl Delicate Choker A handcrafted delicate choker necklace made with Keshi pearls featuring exposed wire and a large baroque pearl droplet; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Mother of Pearl Layering Choker A handcrafted choker necklace made with Keshi pearls featuring a hero baroque center pearl; part of the Mother of Pearl collection. Targeted at women seeking distinctive pearl jewelry.
• Digital Gift Card A digital gift card applied at checkout, available in denominations of $100, $200, $300, $500, and $1,000 that never expires. Targeted at individuals purchasing gifts for fashion-conscious women.

Named customers1 record

Segments2 records

Ideal customer profiles2 records

Technology focussed No

API detail

Has API

No

API docs

API detail

Core technology

AI maturity

App detail

Feature6 records

Partnerships

One partnership is on record.

• UPSoperationalOthersShipping courier partner providing domestic and international shipping services. Subsurface has partnered with UPS to provide 100% carbon neutral shipping, with the company paying extra for projects including wastewater management, reforestation, and tree planting initiatives.

Scale indicators3 records

Recent moves6 records

Expansion highlights5 records

Direct peers

• STAUD: LA-based contemporary womenswear brand with strong DTC presence and distinctive playful designs. Comparable in channel (DTC), product category, and indie positioning.
• Lisa Says Gah: Independent DTC womenswear brand curating distinctive specialty pieces, based in California. Comparable indie DTC model and specialty-curation approach.
• Rotate Birger Christensen: Independent occasionwear brand with strong DTC, distinctive party dresses, and editorial visibility. Comparable in specialty occasionwear positioning and DTC lean.
• La DoubleJ: Milan-based luxury womenswear brand with original printed fabrics and strong DTC and editorial presence. Comparable in original textile design, Milan production link, and premium positioning.
• Dôen: Independent LA-based specialty womenswear brand selling DTC with vintage-inspired, distinctive pieces. Closely comparable in category, geography, and channel to Subsurface.
• Bernadette: Independent Antwerp-based luxury womenswear brand known for distinctive printed silks and limited-edition pieces. Comparable in design-led, indie, couture-feel positioning.
• Cult Gaia: LA-based fashion brand known for distinctive structured womenswear and accessories, sold direct-to-consumer. Similar category, geography, and creative-brand positioning.
• Sleeper: Independent womenswear brand with focus on unique occasionwear and loungewear pieces, sold DTC. Comparable in indie positioning and special-occasion product mix.

Broad incumbents

• Free People: Established multi-channel womenswear retailer with own brand and boutique presence. Comparable in womenswear category and stocking unique specialty pieces, though at significantly larger scale and broader assortment.
• Reformation: LA-based sustainable womenswear brand with significant DTC scale and broader assortment. Comparable in LA-base, DTC, and use of niche/sustainable positioning, but at much larger scale.

Market position

Strengths5 records

Weaknesses5 records

Competitive moat3 records

Key risks5 records

Key highlights5 records

Customer concentration

• Instagraminstagram.com/subsurface.tv
• TikToktiktok.com/@subsurface.tv?lang=en
• Facebookfacebook.com/SUBSURFACE-100063916626067
• LinkedInlinkedin.com/company/subsurfacetv

Revenue estimate

Valuation estimate

Number of profiles

Profiles1 record

Funding overview

Funding rounds

Investors

Funding detail is available on the Subscription and Enterprise plan.Contact sales →

M&A

Investments

M&A and investment is available on the Subscription and Enterprise plan.Contact sales →

Frequently asked questions about Subsurface